HGE Contraptions Vemuram TSV808 Clone (160th pedal built)

HGE Contraptions Vemuram TSV808 Clone (160th pedal built)

Excellent sounding pedal, here is a video take with this pedal on/off randomly, on a Crate Blue Voodoo 120 modded head, but in a lower gain setting of the amp, using my two Fender Stratocaster Custom HGE Build Projects,          first one from the start, and second one (at 9 min mark):

Specs:

• Original OPA2134 IC;
• Gorva Mechano soft actuating 3PDT True Bypass;
• Lumberg Japan Jacks and DC plug;
• Metal film quality resistors, caps are Nichicon lytics and various other good caps;
• Silver plated single core red telfon coated copper wiring;
• Quality Kester Eutectic 63/37 solder with good and aesthetically pleasing soldering;
• The two switches give a variety of diode combinations, subtle in part but can be combined in 4 ways;

HGE Contraptions Resistive Attenuator Build (159th "pedal" built)

Sounds awesome and works well. Handles about 200W max.

Will build a second identical one for my stereo setup.

TC Electronic Integrated Preamp variant clone (158th pedal built)

 This clone is based on the TC Electronic Integrated Preamp, but this also has a buffer at the circuit input, always connected when switched on. Bypass is true bypass.

This is basically what the Fortin 33 is also (a previous clone of mine as well), but I missed the control for bass and treble and I decided to do this version as well.

For some reason I got bored 😆 and used mostly carbon comp resistors and partially some different type caps. 

“Mojo” …. if you will haha.

Fortin Zuul Gate/Suppressor Clone (157th pedal built)

 My “Fortin Zuul” clone (157th pedal built), with some modifications and an added switchable buffer on the Key in/through.

This pedal is actually the noise suppressor/gate from the Marshall JCM800 Kerry King head in a pedal.

Jackson DK 1997 Japan tinkering

 Was tinkering with my project Jackson DK 1997 Japan guitar. 

Installed a new Gotoh Japan trem, took care of the fretwire a bit, just needed some extra side recrown sanding work and follow up buffing. 

The actual body had some ugly superglue spots combined with other things but I managed to buff the nasty stuff out.

Used some older real deal 90s non connector version EMGs, and for fun I actually used ~24V ⚡️ 😈, not 9 or 18v (one can do this with 2x type 23A <12V batteries>, by using a smaller dedicated holder). Remember that EMGs can take up to 27V on the internal preamp.

Sounds great and cleans up nice also, since the headroom is better. The response seems better as well.  

Had to use extra shielding paint on the upper rim of the cavity and I also made screw inserts so that the lid is easily accessible with no wood screws anymore yay!